![]() 01/29/2018 at 16:14 • Filed to: surfing, big wave surfing, bigly waves are bigly | ![]() | ![]() |
![]() 01/29/2018 at 16:28 |
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its soooooo much energy. scary scary stuff. I mean its like 1000 swimming pools coming at you at 20 mph.
![]() 01/29/2018 at 16:32 |
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These people are crazy.
![]() 01/29/2018 at 16:39 |
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I remember one guy in a surf video I have described it as falling down a mountain, while that mountain is chasing you.
![]() 01/29/2018 at 16:50 |
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The first time I was like NOPE was about age 9 or 10 when I realized how many big waves broke over shallow reefs.
Then later, I learned that some really big waves can’t be paddled into — you have to be towed by a waverunner into the wave.
MEGANOPE.
![]() 01/29/2018 at 16:57 |
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I think they have to modify the wave runners because stock ones aren’t fast enough to get them into these big waves.
![]() 01/29/2018 at 16:59 |
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I’ve watched that video 4-5 times now and still haven’t made it through while keeping my jaw closed. I’ve seen 20-25 foot waves on Lake Superior and those are mind blowing from solid ground. I can’t begin to fathom waves that big, let alone surfing on them.
![]() 01/29/2018 at 17:44 |
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I love surfing and I love the sensation of big waves and the feeling of charging fast over shallow ground but these are BIG waves....
![]() 01/29/2018 at 18:31 |
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I like a clean 15ft, maybe 20 if it’s at sunset or Waimea and really clean. I’m from Oahu but too big is stress and I want to relax.
![]() 01/29/2018 at 18:34 |
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Yeah I’ve touched my hand down in the water and been stabbed by vana, one went all the way through my hand once. They are made mainly of calcium so it doesn’t hurt you to get some left behind. I could see a purple spot in my hand for years.
![]() 01/29/2018 at 18:58 |
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It’s like snowboarding but if you mess up the mountain falls on you.
![]() 01/29/2018 at 18:59 |
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Who is Megan Ope?
![]() 01/29/2018 at 19:02 |
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She got her arm bitten off by a shark! And she still surfs.
![]() 01/29/2018 at 19:04 |
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A friend of mine had a bull shark bump into his foot once. He doesn’t surf. Anymore.
![]() 01/29/2018 at 19:16 |
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I’ve been swimming in the ocean my entire life, but these days I’m more into staying in the water but out of the water. Rowboats, kayaks, SUPs. I’ve seen way too many crabs, jellies and sharks up close than I’d like to.
Ignorance is bliss. Go in the Gulf of Mexico, Caribbean, etc and you’ll suddenly see all the stuff you’d never notice in the Atlantic or Pacific.
![]() 01/29/2018 at 21:35 |
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My first time to Kauai, I wanted to rent a surfboard. So i heard of a beach that had a variety of waves. I rent the board, ride a few small 3foot waves, go look at the area past the reef. walks back to where I rented, “hey I heard this place has 3 levels of waves, um where do the kids go surfing?” “out there” (turns around looks at waves breaking with random coral patches sticking up
me: “no ..like ... where do the little kids surf”
guy :” out there.”
( starts to paddle out, sees more rocks and shallow spots)
fuck this im going back to the 3 foot waves.